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Bill BrysonA modern alternative to SparkNotes and CliffsNotes, SuperSummary offers high-quality Study Guides with detailed chapter summaries and analysis of major themes, characters, and more.
Bryson suggests that the British and the Americans possess a mutual fascination for each other’s national quirks, coupled with disdain for certain characteristics—Americans view the English as painfully reserved, for example, while English people view Americans as embarrassingly boisterous. While the bulk of this book focuses solely on Great Britain, Bryson cannot help but compare his adopted country to the country of his birth. This strategy of comparison allows him to make generalizations about both countries that serve to support his ideas about (and affection for) each. Bryson’s credibility as a travel writer rests on his ability to position himself both as an insider and an outsider: His outside perspective allows him to notice traits that the British may not see in themselves, while his long habitation in England gives him an intimate knowledge of its culture and landscape. Thus, Bryson establishes authority over each place, fashioning himself an expert in relaying cultural realities.
Bryson writes that when he first arrived in Britain, more than 20 years prior to the events of the book, his body “was lightly oiled with the dirt of two nations” (11). The metaphor suggests that he belongs to both the US and England but, as a young man, is not deeply rooted in either. He is initially confused and overwhelmed, but he slowly grows to enjoy his position as an outsider: “To this day,” Bryson notes with growing fondness for what he sees as a British idiosyncrasy, “I remain impressed by the ability of Britons of all ages and social backgrounds to get genuinely excited by the prospect of a hot beverage” (18). The ritual of afternoon tea is a symbol of British cultural identity: While in the US cup of tea is simply a “hot beverage,” in England it represents notions of home, family, safety, and hospitality. Bryson speaks to the welcoming impulse wherein he begins to feel at home in a faraway place.
The longer he stays in England, ironically, the more he becomes the representative American in the lives of his British friends and acquaintances. He mentions his editing job at the Bournemouth Evening Echo, where one of his colleagues constantly peppers him with “mystifying question[s] to do with America” (75). These questions are along the lines of confirming Mickey Rooney’s sexual experience with Ava Gardner or identifying the native bird species of Hawaii. Bryson, the only American in the room, becomes, by default, the expert on the US. Concomitantly, he grows into an expert on the British character as well, though his observations on this subject are frequently comparative: “[T]he British are so easy to please,” he boldly asserts, an attitude that “is completely alien to the American mind” (79). This contrast allows Bryson to draw a (necessarily stereotypical) character sketch of the British people among whom he travels.
Later, as Bryson reports firmly from the present, after 20 years in Britain, he claims ownership over both cultural heritages: “I explained to [the tourist officer] that though I was technically an American I had lived in Britain long enough to be careful with my money” (88). Again, though the line is intended as a joke, it implies Bryson’s authoritative position: He is both an American and an Englishman. There is something indelibly distinct about both cultures, and Bryson embodies each of them. When discussing the disappearing hedgerows throughout the British countryside, Bryson complains that “[t]hey are a central part of what makes England England. Without them, it would just be Indiana with steeples” (147). The implication is that he knows “what makes England England” because he is not from England himself.
Ultimately, he appreciates both cultures, as he also celebrates their differences; poking fun at something is often a way to reveal affection for it. Thus, he indulges in well-earned nostalgia for each. He travels throughout England on his “valedictory tour,” paying his respects to the place he has called home for 20 years (5). While on this tour, however, he is also reminded of everything else that constitutes his identity, including, and especially, his American-ness. After watching This Is Cinerama, with its sweeping vistas of American scenery, in the English city of Bradford, he thinks, “Yes, I am ready to go home” (179), by which he means the US. However, he does not end on that thought: “But first […] I’ll just have a curry” (179), by which he means one of the quintessential dishes of modern England, the result of its history of imperialism and immigration. On accepting his imminent departure from his adopted country, Bryson admits, “I shall miss it very much” (315). After the publication of this book, Bryson spent eight years back “home” in the US, but he then returned to England and is now officially a dual citizen, seeing his identity as both American and English.
Throughout his journey, Bryson admires the far-reaching history that proliferates throughout the UK, and he laments the loss of this history as a homogenizing modernization increasingly makes England look like everywhere else. For Bryson, modernization dilutes the cultural heritage that makes England unique. The threats to history are ubiquitous, and they ironically include economic incentives to bring in more tourism. Bryson notes, for example, that the seaside town of Blackpool has more yearly visitors than the entire country of Greece, and the beach is lined with theme parks that would not look out of place in Southern California.
Early in the book, Bryson voices his unease with the fundamental paradox of historic preservation: Historic sites attract tourism, but tourism leads to the slow erosion of history. “It sometimes occurs to me that the British have more heritage than is good for them” (84), Bryson says, summing up the problem. The “stockpile” of old buildings and ancient sites in Britain is so immense that it all begins to seem like an inexhaustible resource of historical significance, but this is not the case, according to Bryson: “In fact, the country is being nibbled to death” (84). City planners ignore historical structures and continuity, while modern conveniences take precedence over historical accuracy. In addition, a newly burgeoning streak of libertarianism has encouraged homeowners and corporations to reshape villages, cities, and landscapes alike to fit their own personal tastes and commercial desires. Mostly, as Bryson repeatedly argues throughout the book, this creates places that are “like anywhere and nowhere” at once (283). As Britain tries to swim with the tide of global consumer culture, it risks losing its unique identity. Modernity smooths over the irregular edges of history, the very details that bestow uniqueness and beauty to a place.
This constitutes Bryson’s “gripe with Oxford,” the university city founded in the early Middle Ages: “[S]o much of it is so ugly” (132). This is due to the lack of consideration in city planning, as well as a general sense of apathy among its citizenry. Without protection and acknowledgment, history is overwhelmed by modernity. Bryson uses vivid descriptive language and metaphor to convey the degree to which these outbreaks of modernity disrupt the atmosphere of Oxford, describing the “concrete eyesore that is the administrative offices” of the university; “the outsized pustule that is the head office of Oxfordshire City Council,” not to mention “the brutalist compound of the magistrates’ courts”; “the bleak sweep of Oxpens Road”; and “the busy squalor of Park End Street” (133). These all stand in testament to a lack of social and political will to preserve history. This kind of blindness is not limited to the cities; the ancient landscapes of England are under attack as well, according to Bryson. As he puts it, in an echo of the earlier quotation regarding heritage, “It is easy to forget, in a landscape so timeless and fetching, so companionably rooted to an ancient past, how easily it is lost” (146). The pressures of modernity bear down relentlessly on this history, an indicator of how so-called progress can quickly swallow the past.
Bryson laments the economic costs of change as well. As legacy industries—shipping, textile manufacturing—move offshore, the buildings they once occupied are “torn down to make room for supermarkets or converted into heritage centers, apartment buildings or shopping complexes” (187). These “heritage centers,” to Bryson, are an especially grim proof of what is being lost. Ostensibly intended to preserve history, they instead commodify it. Rather than a living, continuous tradition, the past becomes yet another tourist attraction, “a kind of Disneyland version of Jolly Olde England” that obscures rather than illuminates England’s real history (192). Tourism, for Bryson, does not offer a satisfactory answer to what beleaguers Britain’s historical towns and ancient sites. Tourism turns real places into manufactured attractions, detached from historical resonance or cultural reality. Tourism turns a site into a simulacrum of itself, inauthentic by definition—like The Orwell pub on Wigan pier.
Still, despite his fears and criticisms, Bryson’s tone remains largely positive throughout the book. For every Blackpool—“ugly, dirty […], cheap, provincial, and dire” (239)—there is a Morecambe, which exists in contradiction to the tourist trap. For every planned community like Milton Keynes, there is a quaint English village like Woodstock. On every walk, as Bryson acknowledges, “[t]here is always some intriguing landmark just over the next contour line” (95). That is, there is much still left to explore on this small island, awash with history and inundated by culture.
Although Bryson’s ostensible subject is the island of Great Britain, his book is equally about himself. As he travels through his adopted home, he discovers the degree to which this island has shaped his personality, and he considers how his personality shapes his experience of the island.
From the moment Bryson begins to retrace his steps into England, alighting in Dover for the first time in 20 years, expectations give way to disorientation: Besides the sea, “everything else looked different” (26); “I didn’t recognize anything,” he complains, and he becomes “unhappy that a place so central to my memories was so unfamiliar” (27). Much has changed in 20 years, both in the landscape and in the observer, and the disconnect between expectation and reality produces disorientation. Bryson’s journey through Great Britain becomes a way to combat this disorientation—to place his long-ago memories alongside present realities and to find some synthesis between the two.
This feeling of being lost never quite leaves him throughout his travels. A third of the way through his journey, as he reaches Exeter, he mentions “feeling mildly lost and far from home,” not quite “sure what I was doing here” (111). When his agenda is thwarted by disappointment (“Exeter is not an easy place to love” [112]), he begins to wonder about the purpose not only of the trip but of the book he is writing. Later, as he walks through the Lake District, he experiences another dislocation of memory: Tintern Abbey is not quite where he thought it was. He notes that he “was disappointed to find that it didn’t stand out in the country as I recalled but on the edge of an unmentionable village” (127). When the reality does not measure up to the expectation, whether due to modernization or faulty memory, the traveler loses his bearings.
Later, he starts to recognize that his journey is informed not only by what he sees but also by how he feels. He experiences “moments of quiet panic” when he thinks about leaving England and realizes that his underlying motivations make any objective observation of the landscape impossible: “It was a melancholy business really, this little trip of mine, a bit like wandering through a much-loved home for the last time” (81). This explains, at least to a degree, why Bryson is so protective of the parts of the country that he finds most compelling, the layered history and unique heritage that sets England apart, in his mind. The entire journey is suffused with nostalgia before Bryson even sets foot off the island. He longingly surveys its overstuffed rooms before he must take his leave.
Again and again, he reaches impasses wherein he either feels lost or displaced—yet he soldiers on, determined to amass his impressions and shape them into a book. Though the journey itself might often be thwarted—“I would have to start all over again” (155)—his travels begin to make sense when he applies a narrative to them, even when that narrative is less than inspiring: “[R]ealizing that somehow everything I did this day would be touched with disappointment, I went and had a pint of beer in an empty pub, a mediocre dinner in an Indian restaurant, a lonely walk in the rain; and finally I retired to my room” (159). Despite the difficulties and the loneliness, he keeps going, and in doing so, he continues to seek purpose.
When his journey ends, he is startled by the anticlimax: “Suddenly my trip was over. I hastened from the train in a state of confusion” (315). He has not found exactly what he sought—because it is not there, in reality, to find—but he has discovered something profound via his acts of writing and his feats of imagination. He has found himself, at his home, “a tiny part of this small, enchanted island” (316). The purpose of the trip becomes clear only in retrospect: It is an homage to place, and to the self that has been shaped by the expectations and disappointments that inevitably accompany any journey through one’s once-familiar home.
By Bill Bryson