The River of Doubt: Theodore Roosevelt's Darkest Journey

When the expeditionary group reached Tapirapoan, where they would begin their overland journey, there was chaos. The Americans had too much baggage for the mules to carry. While more mules were obtained, they were not tame. A delay resulted, frustrating Kermit and Roosevelt.

The group finally set out to cross the Brazilian highlands, an enormous area with varied terrain. The group crossed pastures, jungles, and arid land. The area was inhospitable for the pack animals. Indeed, the bones of pack animals from previous expeditions could be observed. With little grass and water, the oxen and mules did not do well.

Concerned about rations, Rondon ordered the midday meal to be omitted. Zahm, who made racist comments, angered Rondon, and one Brazilian, Julio de Lima, attacked another. Frank Harper and Kermit battled malaria. While Kermit remained, Harper returned home. Despite the challenges, the Americans and Brazilians began to develop friendship and mutual respect.

On January 25, three large all-terrain trucks arrived, which helped with hauling the supplies and allowed some members to travel in them. In late January, the group reached Utiarity, a remote telegraph station and “one of the last, tentative outposts of official exploration into Brazil’s dark interior” (98). There, they learned that Margaret Roosevelt had died in New York of typhoid fever, which she had contracted on the trip to South America. This news left the group depressed and aware of their mortality.

When the expedition reached Utiarity, the Pareci, an Indigenous people, entertained the men with games. The outpost was divided into two parts: the buildings from the telegraph commission and the homes of the Pareci. At this point, the leaders realized that the size of the group had to be cut. Since the group did not need two naturalists, Miller would depart. Zahm, who had alienated the men with his racism, was told to leave along with Sigg. Zahm had requested that he be carried by Pareci men, which both Rondon and Roosevelt found offensive. Roosevelt had 10 men sign a letter stating that Zahm’s presence would be detrimental to the expedition.

The group proceeded along the telegraph lines under difficult conditions. All were tormented by insects, especially small stingless bees that swarmed the hands and faces of the men (109). Kermit suffered from bouts of malaria and sores on his legs, which caused Roosevelt to worry about his son. On February 4, Roosevelt, recognizing the need to reduce the numbers more, cut Fiala. However, he found another expedition for him exploring the Papagaio River. Although the source and mouth of that river were known, much of it was unexplored.

As the expedition proceeded toward the River of Doubt, oxen were collapsing and mules were dying. The men were ordered to cut their personal baggage in half as a result. On February 8, the group reached another remote telegraph station at the Juruena River. There, they learned that Fiala had lost half of his food and equipment, as they were swept downriver. He had to be rescued as well. Fiala blamed the loss on the heavy boats and felt vindicated in his earlier advice to use lighter canoes.

Roosevelt’s group was entering into the area where the Nhambiquara people lived. When Rondon had first encountered these people, they had shot poison-tipped arrows at him and his men. Gradually, he was able to win them over with gifts and his categorical injunction to his men never to direct violence at the Indigenous peoples. He commanded, “Die if you must, but never kill” (119). He did not allow retaliation even in the face of attack. Roosevelt was unlikely to follow that advice if the lives of his men were at risk.

The Nhambiquara people were nomadic hunter-gatherers who did not wear clothing and slept on the ground. On February 11, the expedition came across the vertically buried bodies of two Brazilian soldiers murdered by the Nhambiquara. As the expedition ventured deeper into the territory of the Nhambiquara and away from those members whom Rondon had befriended, there was reason to be fearful. The expedition would be perceived as an invading force.

Another concern was food. Given the dwindling supplies, the officers had to cut their rations in half to ensure that the camaradas, or Brazilian soldiers, whose labor was needed for all to survive the journey, were fed. That made survival a race against time.